< Previous78 Photo by Mark V ong To put Cambodia into quick perspective for those who haven’t visited it, a glance back at its zenith is needed. It was one of the ancient empires of the world from the 9th to 13th centuries and Kambuja, or the “Khmer Empire”, was a magnificent one equivalent in size to the earlier Egyptian Empire, and Holy Roman Empire. Even today it remains admired for the mastery of the artistry and engineering of its stone temples in Siem Reap, as well as other aspects then such as language, social welfare, healthcare and irrigation. Since then, the kingdom has been through complex times including becoming a French protectorate for 90 years, a tragic genocide during the 1980s, and then war with Vietnam until 1989. Yet its people remain kind and resilient, in keeping with their spirituality as Buddhists, and it’s their story set against that complex history which partly makes Cambodia a more compelling SE Asian destination today. Travellers who like to explore a culture, who seek authenticity in a place and to meet interesting residents will discover all that here. The country I revisited recently has a lot more to offer visitors from north to south, east to west. The less-visited regions are opening up as transport infrastructure has improved substantially, increasing flight capacity and also cutting some overland journeys that formerly took six hours down to two. Today, people are travelling easily around the country for its beaches and private islands in the south, to golf at one of the 11 courses, and to its rivers and jungles in the northeast with hiking and eco-friendly nature activities. Siem Reap in the northwest will, of course, always be the crown jewel of Cambodia with its magnificent ancient temples and legends carved in stone. It’s a consistent favourite in TripAdvisor’s Travelers’ Choice Awards for Best of the Best Destinations – in 2023, it ranked fourth behind Cuba, Vietnam and Mauritius, and ahead of Chiang Mai, Grand Cayman, and the Fez. THE JOURNEY79 SIEM REAP: HISTORY AND LEGENDS CARVED IN STONE (NORTHWEST) International flights currently land at either Siem Reap’s new airport or Phnom Penh. The characters of the cities are different, and it doesn’t make much difference which one to visit first. Siem Reap showcases the cultural heritage of Cambodia, while Phnom Penh is urban with a riverfront and more options for dining, shopping and entertainment. It does make a difference if you visit Angkor National Museum before you visit any of the archaeological sites in Siem Reap, however. Doing so will demystify the country’s ancient history with its great kings, cultural aspects that remain ingrained until today, and the stone temples you will later visit. ANGKOR NATIONAL MUSEUM The museum is one of the best I’ve visited for its engaging story-telling via multimedia, attractive modern displays and interactive exhibits. As I stood in front of a stone stele from the 7th century engraved with curvaceous Old Khmer writing, my skin tingled hearing a voice recite the declaration of rice fields, slaves and property boundaries. One highlight of many is the striking 1,000 Buddha Gallery with its exclusive collection of Buddha images in different art-styles, postures and materials. Gallery 5 (Angkor Wat) features panoramic images of the temple with explanations of how it was constructed. Allot at least two hours to cover the eight galleries, which are air- conditioned. Audio guides are available in nine languages for USD 5 a set. The curatorial team, led by Mr. Ven Sophorn, take turns to welcome groups. ANGKOR ARCHAEOLOGICAL PARK To get to the site where most of the main temples are located, there are various options for your mode of transport. My favourite is riding pillion on a brightly-coloured Vespa, which adds a sense of fun to the journey. You can also opt for a tuk-tuk, jeep, automobile or bicycle. It’s worthwhile hiring a history guide to take you around the temples, but if your focus is on photography there are experts provided by the likes of Angkor Photography. If the skies are clear, visitors may like to book a hot air balloon ride over the temples. There are four sites already inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List (Angkor, Preah Vihear, Sambor Prei Kuk, Koh Ker) and others on the Tentative List. The three most-visited temples are Angkor (the symbol of Cambodia) especially at sunrise, Bayon, and Ta Prohm. Others worthwhile visiting include: Angkor Thom; Banteay Srei; Baphuon; and Phnom Bakheng especially for sunset with its view over Angkor Wat and jungle. A little further north lie the Kulen Mountains, where new archaeological finds of the early capital city of Mahendraparvata are being uncovered as you read this article. With over 50 listed temples of varying sizes and legends, select your choices to fit your time and preferences, then purchase your entry ticket accordingly. With other activities to also do such as food-touring, gallery-hopping and simply relaxing at the spa or pool, one can easily spend four days in Siem Reap, even more if you like to take your time and explore lesser-visited sites. Note that sites may be in different stages of renovation with some areas closed off to visitors, so check updates before your trip. Photo by Jenjira van der Linden Photo by Mark V ong Photo by Jenjira van der Linden80 THE JOURNEY A PLACE TO LAY YOUR HEAD AT NIGHT There are a number of choices for where to lay your head at night according to your personal preferences and budget. The one that will capture your heart, however, is the Raffles Grand Hotel D’Angkor with its romantic French Art Deco architecture and warm hospitality including the legendary Raffles Butlers who will ensure your stay is totally worry- free. The grande dame hotel of Siem Reap has retained her allure for over 90 years, and today counts HRH Princess Chansita Norodom as its Raffles’ Ambassador. Its refreshed look following a renovation in 2020 is more reason to stay here and, once it’s time to move on to Phnom Penh, remember she has a sister there, the Raffles Hotel Le Royal. ARTISANAL HEARTBEAT As the heart of the cultural scene, Siem Reap is where you will enjoy creativity in different forms such as classical dancing, royal cuisine and artisanal crafts. It’s also heartwarming to see how local youths and the disadvantaged are being offered opportunities on the cultural scene here, and when meeting Siem Reap residents one will get to hear personal stories and better understand the patience and resilience of the people. Stocker Studio creates fine lacquer items with fascinating textures using straw marquetry, eggshell, gold leaf and more. With their deep knowledge of ancient lacquer techniques from Burma to Japan, co-founders Eric and Thierry have trained up locals, including deaf youngsters, to become craftspeople. At Masa Studio, fashion-forward Damien Dufresne hangs his striking photography on the walls as well as works by local protégés, whom he offers studio space and mentoring. Tribe Art Gallery, run by Nat di Maggio, hosts exhibitions for upcoming artists, art classes and retreats. As many venues are run independently, please check their opening times in advance. EVENING TIME There are various venues to watch graceful classical and traditional dances with live music, such as the small stage near Wat Damnak where the Sacred Dancers of Angkor perform, the comfortable Raffles Marquee which organises a weekly dinner with performance, and a few restaurants that offer almost-daily cultural shows. Do check if Wat Bo Leather Puppet Troupe is putting on a shadow puppet performance under the night sky. For contemporary entertainment, there’s Phare The Cambodian Circus with juggling, acrobatics and aerial acts. There are also enough bar and clubs dotted around the city to keep you out until past midnight. Many head to the legendary Elephant Bar for its signature cocktails and Sipping Cabinet. Many also head to Pub Street: Miss Wong is a speakeasy, Bar Code a drag bar, and Temple Club offers different music and vibes across its three floors. Photos by Jenjira van der Linden81 PHNOM PENH: AUTHENTICITY AND RESILIENCE (SOUTH-CENTRAL) While Siem Reap is defined by its glorious past, Phnom Penh tells the story of Cambodia’s modern history. It’s the urban choice for its pleasant three-kilometre-long riverfront promenade and wide choices for dining and entertainment, and is where the Royal Palace and the National Museum of Cambodia are located, where rare sculptures are being repatriated from museums and private collections abroad after absences of around three decades. SISOWATH QUAY Phnom Penh’s long waterfront promenade sits along Chaktomuk River, at the confluence of the Mekong and Tonlé Sap rivers. A remarkable event occurs annually when monsoon winds cause the Mekong to swell in the south, and force the Chaktomuk and Tonlé Sap to flow upstream into Tonlé Sap Lake in the northwest – it’s the only river in the world that flows both ways! This amazing feat of nature has led to the biggest holiday of the year, Bon Om Tuk, a three-day water festival in November with boat racing. The country essentially shuts down as locals celebrate with nonstop festivities including boat races and concerts (most take place in front of the palace), plenty of music, food, dancing and cheering for the rowers and drummers on the boats. If your trip doesn’t coincide with Bon Om Tuk, you can still enjoy people-watching on the waterfront promenade as the sun goes down, ROYAL PALACE The Royal Palace, which dates back to the 19th century and the start of the current Norodom dynasty, has witnessed many tumultuous events in the country. Throughout, it has been a constant visual reminder to the people of their roots and spirituality by being painted in white to represent Buddhism, and mustard-yellow to represent Hinduism. Within lies Khemarin Palace, home of the King of Cambodia, in front of which a deep purple flag is hoisted when he is in residence. The Royal Palace contains elegant buildings and pavilions for various purposes such as display, performances and official occasions. Not to be missed here is the exquisite Silver Pagoda. Its steps were crafted from Italian Carrara marble, and the inner floor consists of over 5,300 engraved silver tiles which altogether weigh over five tonnes. In front of the 17th century Emerald Buddha said to be made of baccarat crystal stands a magnificent 17th century life-size Maitreya of 22-carat gold, weighing 90 kilogrammes and adorned with almost 2,100 diamonds including a 25-carat diamond embedded in the crown and a 20-carat diamond in the chest. The wall surrounding the Silver Pagoda reveals the biggest mural fresco in SE Asia depicting an episode of Reamker, the Khmer version of the Ramayana. Also not to be missed is the Royal Treasury with its collection of royal regalia and treasures including intricate golden crowns and jewel-encrusted ceremonial swords. The palace is home for stupas of the kings of the Norodom dynasty, as well as one dedicated to Princess Kantha Bopha who succumbed to leukaemia at the age of four in 1952, and where King Father Norodom Sihanouk instructed his ashes to be placed. The building on the palace grounds that feels very much at odds is the Napoleon Pavilion, a gift from Emperor Napoleon III of France, with its western aesthetics. and visit nearby Phnom Penh Night Market (open between 5-11 pm) for street food such as grilled meat skewers, fried bananas, fresh coconut or sugar cane juice, and more. Have dinner at a waterside restaurant or else The Sugar Palm Restaurant & Bar, recommended for its classic, home-style local dishes; La’ Baab Restaurant for its menu rooted in local culture but with innovation; and Malis for its signature dishes and elegant setting. Then go for a nightcap. Paparazzi Bar & Kitchen is nearby with a cigar room on the upper floor. Bassac Lane stays lively until the wee hours. If its Thursday night, head over to Samai Distillery, Cambodia’s first premium rum distillery, which opens as a bar just once a week.82 THE JOURNEY NATIONAL MUSEUM OF CAMBODIA Here is a treasure trove of over 14,500 artefacts, the oldest of which dates back as far as the 5th century. There is even more reason to visit the museum today because of the rare, important sculptures that are being repatriated from overseas museums and private collectors as far as the UK, New York and Australia after being illegally taken from their motherland around 30 years ago. Some sculptures are becoming whole again as they are reunited with missing parts. To the Cambodians the sculptures of gods have souls and are ancestors returning to their motherland, bringing back a piece of Khmer history, heritage and much national pride. These events are being reported around the world by international media, showing their significance. Repatriated artefacts so far include many which date back to the Koh Ker period of the 10th century, such as the extraordinary sandstone Skanda on a Peacock, and the stone Ganesha weighing three tonnes which now sits facing a majestic Garuda from the same era. Most recently returned was a stone Uma that will finally be reunited with her feet, and a bronze head of Avalokiteshvara that will be reunited with its torso already on display at the museum. The importance and massive size of many of the repatriated sculptures may lead to the museum finally getting a much-needed upgrade that will turn it into a comfortable and interactive venue using multimedia. MODERN HISTORY To understand the Cambodian people better, listen to their modern history. After becoming a French protectorate for 90 years until 1853, it suffered the insane genocide in the late 1970s that killed over two million people including children, artists and scholars. That was followed by war with Vietnam for over 14 years until 1989. To understand more about this, visitors can visit the Tuol Sleng Museum, and the Killing Fields of Choeung Ek which lie 15 km from the city centre. But be prepared for uneasy experiences such as seeing endless sombre photos of victims including children, torture instruments, skulls and remnants of belongings of those whose lives were taken. To counterbalance the above, have some fun seeing the city landmarks from a three-wheeled cycle. You can stop for refreshments at local café chains such as Tube (there’s one on the quay), Brown, and Blue Pumpkin, a French-style bakery, restaurant and ice cream parlour all in one. Other places to visit in and around the city include Psah Toul Tom Poung (Russian Market), Wat Ounalom, Oudong Temple 40 km from the city centre, and Tamao Wildlife Rescue Centre. THE JOURNEY83 Bangkok Airways Call Centre: 1771 W. www.bangkokair.com OTHER REGIONS TO EXPLORE Golf is one outdoor activity that is enjoyed today across the country. Mr. Win Zaw, managing director of Asia Expeditions, says that Cambodia already boasts 11 courses, one of which is a Nicklaus Design, located from coastal Koh Kong on the west to Phnom Penh and Siem Reap. He anticipates that four more courses will open by 2026, at least one of which will also be a Nicklaus Design. Improvements in transport infrastructure are opening up the less- visited regions. The expressway between Phnom Penh to seaside Sihanoukville in the south, for example, has cut down the drive from six hours to an easy two hours. A plan to construct the first airport for Mondulkiri in the northeast will dramatically cut travelling time from seven hours overland to less than one. Siem Reap already has a new international airport that opened in late 2023, while Phnom Penh’s new Techo Takhmao International Airport is scheduled to open in 2026. In the coastal south, Kep is popular to visit for its seafood, especially crabs, and sandy beach with calm waters. Kampot, which the colonial French called “heaven on earth”, has a quiet riverside location and its Bokor Mountains with a national park – one of Cambodia’s two ASEAN Heritage Parks. Seaside Sihanoukville is now a city with lively entertainment, and from where those seeking the slow life will make their way to any of the idyllic islands. Foodies will discover ingredients in this region such as Kampot pepper, sea salt, palm sugar and coconut. Foodies may also like to venture to Battambang in the northwest to explore its markets, local dishes and ingredients such as Jasmine rice, cardamon, chillies and kaffir limes. This is where Cambodia’s only winery, Prasat Phnom Banan Winery, is located. The northwest Raffles Grand Hotel d’Angkor T. +855 63 963 888 E. bookus.siemreap@raffles.com W. www.rafflessiemreap.com Raffles d’Angkor, Hotel Le Royal T. +855 23 981 888 E. bookus.phnompenh@raffles.com W. www.rafflesphnompenh.com region is where Tonlé Sap Lake and the origin of its river, the lifeblood of Cambodia, is located. This is SE Asia’s largest freshwater lake and a UNESCO biosphere reserve. Eco-friendly nature activities are developing in the northeast region. Virachey National Park, Cambodia’s other ASEAN Heritage Park, permits visitors with a certified guide to hike through its jungle and spot flora as well as wildlife such as indigenous tiger, bear (Himalayan black, Malayan sun), guar, deer (Sambar, muntjac), civet and birds. Nights are spent in hill tribe villages. In Mondulkiri, where a lot of local Robusta coffee is grown, trek and visit coffee farms, visit an elephant sanctuary and experience the local lifestyle by staying in a homestay. A MORE COMPELLING DESTINATION In conclusion, there is so much happening around Cambodia today to make it a compelling destination in SE Asia. Travellers who like to explore a culture, who seek authenticity in a place and to meet interesting residents will discover all that here. As you pack your bags, remember to include some modest clothing for visiting royal and spiritual sites as well as an attitude of flexibility because small venues may open and close unexpectedly, and timings and events may change – all part of the travel experience in a developing country. Safe travels! The writer was a guest of Raffles Grand Hotel d’ Angkor, Raffles d’Angkor, Hotel Le Royal, and Bangkok Airways.COME SLEEP WITH ME 84COME SLEEP WITH ME 94 A STAY TO REMEMBER Located on the pristine shore of Chaweng Beach, Centara Reserve Samui offers a luxurious escape like no other. 96 SUKHOTHAI’S TIMELESS TREASURES Sit on the lush landscape of Sukhothai, Sukhothai Treasure Resort & Spa offers modern elegance just minutes from the Sukhothai Historical Park. 86 RAFFLES GRAND HOTEL D’ANGKOR La grande dame of Siem Reap remains on point in style, understated luxury and hospitality with new touches of modern convenience. 88 ICONIC STAY Marina Bay Sands (MBS), one of Singapore's most iconic landmarks, is undoubtedly on the bucket list of many travellers for their dream trip to the city island. 90 VIBRANT LANNA VIBES Nestled within the bustling Night Bazaar area, Chiang Mai Marriott Hotel offers a blend of Lanna hospitality and contemporary facilities. 92 SKY-HIGH SERENITY Staying at Fairfield by Marriott Phnom Penh was a good choice for my trip with its focus on smart, easy and convenient stays. 8586 COME SLEEP WITH ME La grande dame of Siem Reap remains on point in style, understated luxury and hospitality with new touches of modern convenience. Text by Jenjira van der Linden RAFFLES GRAND HOTEL D’ANGKOR ✿ SETTING THE SCENE ✿ When you stay at this Raffles property, you are transported to the Golden Age of Travel. Its French colonial architecture and eye-catching Art Deco details are romantic, especially under moonlight, and its interior is understatedly luxurious. Kilims and carpets with character lay on hardwood floors, live piano music is played in the Conservatory, and the cage elevator of timber and wrought iron that has carried celebrities and dignitaries since 1932 still works. She is the undisputed grande dame of Siem Reap, and a neighbour of the Royal Residence. A renovation in 2019 has added cachet with touches of modern convenience including brighter spaces, improved French windows, new bathrooms with Italian tiling and rain showers, high-speed connectivity and USB charging even in its passenger vehicles, and its first electric tuk-tuk. Equally memorable are the warm smiles and greetings from every staff you pass by, and the Raffles Butlers who will ensure you do not have a care in the world during your stay.87 ✿ GETTING COMFORTABLE ✿ A tranquil corridor with black and ivory floor tiling will lead to your guest room (unless it is a stand-alone villa, near the swimming pool modelled after Srah Srang, the ancient royal baths of Angkor). Upon stepping inside you will smile happily, knowing that you will sleep contentedly after each day under the tropical sun. There are rooms, suites and villas for your choice, differencing in their size from 32-318 sqm, view and décor details. My Landmark Room’s high ceiling and four-poster bed with Simmons mattress and pillows covered in pristine white linen immediately caught my eye. Then the natural light coming in through the French window, which opened onto a small balcony overlooking the pool and garden. Striking photographs of temples taken by John McDermott adorned the walls, and the marble bathroom showed off its new Italian tiling and rain shower. Charming edible treats and stories were left for me each day. The drinks selection included locally-made dry gin, gold rum and Elephant Bar’s own Negroni, all good for sipping wrapped up in a soft and silky bathrobe. With high-speed connectivity to the world, 24-hour in-room dining starting with breakfast in bed to house-made Bitter Chocolate Ice Cream or Singapore Sling Sorbet (with alcohol) for insomniacs, plus a considerate Raffles Butler able to provide “anything else you may have left at home” and more, it was tempting not to leave the room at all. ✿ DINING OPTIONS ✿ For a wining & dining overview of Raffles Grand Hotel d’Angkor, please go to page 68. To keep fit, head to the 35 m outdoor pool, a tennis court or the fitness centre, or enjoy a relaxing stroll in the Royal Gardens. Detox in the sauna, steam room or Jacuzzi. Rejuvenate with a spa treatment in the spa, in-room or under a frangipani tree. Sign up for Raffles Curated Journeys and Resort Programs to explore archaeological sites, galleries, and watch classical dances. Enjoy many stories about the hotel from Mr. Saravann Mouth, the resident historian, and visit the hotel’s culinary garden. ✿ WHY I’D RETURN ✿ Raffles Grand Hotel d’Angkor is unforgettable. She has a character that is augmented by flawless hospitality, ensuring guests will forget the outside world during their stay. Facilities and services are on point, and she fosters fine arts in her community. Even at the age of 92, la grande dame of Siem Reap carries the No. 2 Readers’ Choice Award for Top Hotel in Southeast Asia in 2023, by Condé Nast Traveler. RAFFLES GRAND HOTEL D’ANGKOR 1 Vithei Charles de Gaulle, Khum Svay Dangkum, Siem Reap, Cambodia 17252 T. +855 63 963 888 E. bookus.siemreap@raffles.com W. www.rafflessiemreap.com ✿ ONE OR TWO QUIBBLES... ✿ The tea selection in guest rooms would be enhanced with some herbal options.Next >