< Previous70 THE JOURNEY >> The first light of day at Mirador Las Torres or "View of the Towers".71 FOR MY 50TH, I GIFTED MYSELF THE ADVENTURE OF A LIFETIME IN PATAGONIA: A place where age is just a number and what truly counts is the mental grit to weather the elements. In this rugged wilderness, I found that adventure knows no age limit — only the fortitude to face nature at its rawest. Text and Photos by Mimi Grachangnetara patagonia A JOURNEY TO THE EDGE OF THE WORLD >> A couple admires the stunning view of Fitz Roy A couple admires the stunning view of Fitz Roy on a glorious day. Photo by Tony Freemanon a glorious day. Photo by Tony Freeman72 Turning 50 isn’t just a milestone; it’s a wake- up call that the clock is ticking. So, with my best friend in tow, I decided to mark it by soaking in the untamed beauty of Patagonia, a place where nature’s raw power and grandeur put everything into perspective. I wanted to hike those rugged trails, stand in awe of glaciers that defy time, and feel the wind whip through my hair atop those jagged peaks before my body decides it’s had enough of this relentless pursuit of adventure. TORRES DEL PAINE: CHILE’S CROWN JEWEL We start our journey in Torres del Paine National Park, a rugged paradise on the Chilean side. This is not a place for the faint-hearted. It’s where you come to test your limits, to see just how far you can push yourself physically and mentally before the wild pushes back. Quite frankly, it’s a trek that can chew you up and spit you out if you’re not prepared. The centrepiece of the park is the hike to Mirador Las Torres. We started the hike up at 1a.m. with nothing to guide us save for the warm glow of our headlamps and THE JOURNEY the blanket of stars. It was, hands down, the most grueling test of endurance and willpower, pushing me to my absolute limits. The cold, biting wind seemed to conspire against me, cutting through my layers and chilling me to the bone. Not having a neck gaiter made things worse and I kicked myself for not bringing one. As I scaled up past slippery stones and icy trails, each step felt like a Herculean effort and my muscles and 50-year-old knees were screaming in protest, a painful reminder that adventure never gets easier, just more rewarding. It was an arduous hike, but reaching the top as the first light of dawn illuminated those iconic granite towers underneath was truly an indescribable reward, a triumph that made every agonising step worthwhile. I admit that I've never been one for sunrises. Early mornings usually find me clutching a coffee cup like a lifeline, not traipsing through the wilderness. But all bets were off here in Patagonia. The landscape here demands a different kind of reverence, one that can only be truly appreciated in those fleeting, magical moments when the first light kisses the mountains. That’s why it was easy to agree to the 4a.m. wake-up call for the hike to Salto Grande Waterfall — a brutal start, I know, but the moment that first light kisses the rugged peaks, it’s a soul-stirring reward that makes every bleary-eyed sacrifice feel like a small price to pay. Of course, there’s a certain romance to chasing the perfect sunrise shot, hunkered down on the edge of a waterfall in the predawn darkness, the world still and expectant. But let’s be honest — romance has a funny way of turning into farce. All it took was one wrong move, a nudge too far, and my tripod teetered, then tumbled into the abyss, dragging my beloved camera with it. Instinct kicked in and I lunged after it, a fool's dive that ended with me clutching a gash on my finger and staring down at my lens, shattered from a 5-metre fall. My camera was toast but as the saying goes, necessity is the mother of invention. Out came my trusty smartphone, a last resort turned unlikely hero. As the sun broke over the horizon, casting its golden glow, I captured shots that defied the odds — stunning, vibrant images that belied their humble origin. Sometimes, even in disaster, you find a kind of grace. >> The mesmerising night sky on the way up to Mirador Las Torres.73 EL CHALTÉN: ARGENTINA’S TREKKING MECCA The untimely demise of my DSLR camera lens felt like losing a limb. But if this journey has taught me anything, it’s the art of adaptation. Now armed with nothing but my smartphone, I discovered that survival isn’t just about the tools you have, but how you use them. The sleek device in my pocket became my lifeline for the next 10 days, capturing the rugged beauty and raw moments with surprising clarity. Turns out, sometimes the best shots come from embracing the unexpected and making do with what you’ve got! We soon cross into Argentina by car, and find ourselves in El Chaltén, a charming village of approximately 3,000 inhabitants. This place bills itself as the Trekking Capital of Argentina, and it’s easy to see why. The trails here are some of the best in the world, leading you through landscapes that look like they’ve been plucked straight from the fantasy drama “Game of Thrones”. First on our list is the hike up to Mirador de Los Condores. Hiking up there was like stepping into a wind tunnel designed by a sadist where each step felt like a defiant act against nature's wrath. When I finally reached the top, the panoramic view of El Chaltén was otherworldly, a stark reward for my perseverance. In the end, though, nature had the last laugh. By the time I stumbled back to the hotel, a fever had already set in like an unwelcome guest. That brutal wind had done more than just test my resolve — it had knocked me out of the game. My days of hiking in Patagonia were over, and I was left to nurse my wounds and wonder at the raw, relentless beauty of Fitz Roy — the real highlight of this trip — from the comforts of my hotel room via the Internet. >> From top: Autumnal hues against the backdrop of the April snow on the way to Mirador Las Torres; The breathtaking view on the way down from Mirador Las Torres; 50-year-old me standing in complete awe of the spectacular landscape (Photo by Chan Srithaweeporn); The road leading to the iconic peaks of Fitz Roy.74 THE JOURNEY >> The incredible peaks of Fitz Roy on a clear, magical day. Photo by Supintar Snitbhan >> This short and easy trek leads to the gorgeous Chorillo del Salto Waterfall. >> Hiking is the best way to get a true Hiking is the best way to get a true taste of what Patagonia has to offer.taste of what Patagonia has to offer.75 DOWN BUT NOT OUT With its jagged peaks and forbidding presence, Fitz Roy is the crown jewel of Patagonia’s skyline. The trek is tough, with steep climbs and treacherous paths (so my friend tells me), but the view at the top is nothing short of transcendent. Scrolling through the photos on my phone, each image a testament to the wild, untamed beauty I’d already captured, the regret began to fade. The towering spires of Torres del Paine, the serene reflection of the Double Lakes at sunset, and the breathtaking majesty of The Burnt Forest — all serve as reminders that my journey had already been nothing short of extraordinary. No FOMO here, just a deep appreciation for the adventures I’d embraced and the landscapes that had left their mark on my soul. Alone and in the throes of a relentless cold (which most probably turned out to be COVID), it was a humble pot noodle that provided the unexpected comfort and sustenance, proving that sometimes salvation comes in the most unglamorous of forms. I was feeling better in no time, and refusing to let another day go to waste, soldiered on to a gentler hike the following day to Chorillo del Salto Waterfall, the perfect spot to sit idly in a quiet corner and let the sound of cascading water wash away the exhaustion from the previous days. >> One of the multiple viewpoints within Torres del Paine National Park is Lake Nordenskjöld.76 THE JOURNEY No journey through Patagonia would be complete without a visit to the Perito Moreno Glacier. This isn’t just a glacier; it’s a living, breathing entity, constantly shifting and groaning as it moves. Watching massive chunks of ice calve off and crash into the turquoise waters below is a humbling experience. It’s a reminder that nature, in all its glory and power, is still very much in charge. The relentless winds of Patagonia might have knocked me out, but it was the raw beauty of the place that truly healed my soul. I came here to find adventure, to push my limits, and to reconnect with the untamed beauty of the natural world, and I got exactly that. Whether it’s standing at the base of Torres del Paine, trekking through the rugged trails of El Chaltén, or gazing in awe at the Perito Moreno Glacier, Patagonia has left an indelible mark on my adventuresome soul. It’s a place that made me feel alive, even as it reminded me of my own fragility. And there’s no better way to celebrate half a century on this planet than by facing the wild, heart racing, and spirit unbroken. Here’s to future escapades, whether my knees like it or not! Cheers. >> Spectacular ice calving can be seen and heard at the Perito Moreno Glacier. >> The Perito Moreno Glacier is located in Argentina's Los Glaciares National Park. >> The fast-moving glacier of Perito Moreno advances down from the Andes at a pace of two metres a day.77 HOW TO GET THERE: Emirates operates flights to Dubai with a connecting flight to São Paulo. From São Paulo, Latam Airlines operates flights to Santiago and then on to Punta Arenas. ACCOMMODATION: Rio Serrano Hotel: Located within Torres del Paine National Park, this is a sublime luxury hotel with a breathtaking view of the mountains. Hotel Poincenot, El Chaltén: This 3-star hotel is situated near the start point of the trekking path to Laguna de los Tres and is close to all the main shops and grocery stores. PRO TIPS: Respect nature. Dispose of waste properly and minimise your impact on the environment. INVEST IN GOOD FOOTWEAR: The terrain can be rugged and challenging. Bring sturdy, well-broken-in hiking boots to protect your feet and provide the necessary support. Prepare for wind: Patagonia is famous for its fierce winds. A good windproof jacket, neck gaiter, hat and gloves will make your experience much more pleasant. >> Sunset at the Double Lakes. >> A pool with a view at Rio Serrano Hotel in Torres del Paine National Park.COME SLEEP WITH ME 78COME SLEEP WITH ME 88 GLIMPSES OF PARADISE Meliá Koh Samui offers a seamless blend of a rich maritime heritage with luxurious accommodation. 80 DESIRABLE UTOPIA Larger than life and extravagant in what it offers its guests, Phulay Bay, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve is the best. 82 RETRO GRANDEUR Truly a lush oasis in the heart of Siem Reap, Park Hyatt Siem Reap surpasses with its distinguished service and luxurious property. 84 A TRANQUIL ESCAPE Forget the hustle and bustle and head to Mai Khao Beach,bto lay your head down in comfort at Le Meridien Phuket Mai Khao Beach Resort. 86 PANORAMIC RETREAT Osaka’s cityscape has recently been enhanced by the grand skyscraper that is Centara Grand Hotel Osaka. 79Next >